Needing Less Doing More

Tag: passage making

Ren’s Bird Obsession…Sometimes Pays Off

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Ren loves birds and wants us all to. It’s easy to understand why when you see the bald eagle in flight.

If you don’t jump, you’ll get “the look”.  The, “I seriously doubt your connection to the natural world” look.

A few years before Ani was born in a time we now refer to as W.W.H.T.A. (When We Had Time Alone), Ren and I embarked on our first trip through the Caribbean.  When we hit the Bahamas one of the first things we noticed as distinctly Caribbean besides the clear water, the coral reefs, the sudden upending of our role as the white majority was the call of the smooth billed ani.

Ren’s Dad is a trained ornithologist.  Because of this Ren grew up with a healthy obsession of birds.  He knows all the birds and wants you to as well.  He probably doesn’t know all the birds but he sure knows more than I do (and probably you).  Ren has no hesitations pointing out a bird and having you rush out of whatever precarious situation you might be in to check it out.  He definitely expects you to shake it off, pants around your ankles, toilet paper in hand just to catch a glimpse of the 1,000th bald eagle of the day.  If you don’t jump, you’ll get “the look”.  The, “I seriously doubt your connection to the natural world” look.  You’ll get this look despite over 20,000 miles of sailing, 8 years freediving and spearfishing together, and over 11 years of everything else.  One mis-step, just one time ignoring his frantic emergency calls, deciding to wipe before pouncing up the companionway stairs and you blew it!  All evidence that you don’t actually HATE bald eagles is out the door.  You’re back to square one with the guy and just exposed your flag (although unknowingly) as a maniacal bald eagle murderer just waiting for your chance to pick them off one by one with the gun you don’t even own.

When the bald eagle lost his luster the new fixation became the white pelican. They're huge, by the way.

When the bald eagle lost his luster the new fixation became the white pelican. They’re huge, by the way.

Now I need to address all of you who are in solidarity with Ren, the Nature Boy.  You know who you are because you are probably harassing your own family somewhere over a sea gull or two.  Bald eagles are not that rare.  And guess what else?  They’ve had white heads and white tails EVERY time I’ve been commanded to look at them.  I say, unless the eagle lands on Jade and starts reciting poetry, just let me regard him at my own pace.  But I digress…

Because of Ren’s relentless bird education fetish the unique call of the smooth billed ani was immediately apparent to me.  I, for once, pointed the bird out to Ren (who had already discovered and researched the bird during a previous trip to the Bahamas I was not there for).  When he told me the name of the new bird it was exciting.  Since the ani is not found back home the modest black bird’s song was a symbol that we had arrived!   Years of planning were over and our liberation had begun.  Ani, we decided, would be an awesome name for a kid if we ever decided to have one.  Turns out, it’s the best!

Our favorite bird! The Ani bird relaxing in her hammock.

Our favorite bird! The Ani bird relaxing in her hammock.

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Journal to Jamaica Day 2

A journalized account of our non-stop sail through the Windward Passage from Long Island, Bahamas to Port Antonio, Jamaica.

DAY TWO:

PRE A.M. (2:00 A.M.)

Ren and I just switched watches.  After a four hour fit of no sleep I am sitting in the cockpit with Oreo under a waxing full moon, completely exhausted but resigned to my watch.  We passed the “night necklace” we wear while on water like the baton in a relay race.  Dangling from the necklace is a whistle and a strobe…just in case.  However, we mitigate the risk of falling overboard at night by staying in the cockpit at all times.  Never leaning over the lifelines, not even to urinate.  If one of us must go forward, escaping the safety of the cockpit, they must first wake the other person and wear a harness.  The harnesses are made of strips of purple webbing that wrap around both legs and arms, joining up in the middle with a clip that attaches to the jack lines.  The jack lines run the entire length of the boat and are only on deck when we are traveling.  Ren made the harnesses for us before we left.  This precaution may sound like overkill to the sailor already well seasoned by salt but losing each other…well…that would be devastating to say the least and this kind of accident is mostly preventable. 

I just sat back down from tweaking the sails.  Ren’s approach to keeping watch includes constant vigilance to the sails’ shape, our direction and speed.  He is always trying to bring the boat back to a homeostatic condition, pulling in one sheet, relaxing another in his constant attempts to gain speed and efficiency.  It is this commitment to Nila Girl and our ETA that makes Ren a great captain.  Personally I find the tweaking tiresome.  I prefer to view my watch schedule as four hour appointments with myself where I can read, write, type up this blog entry, or spend time with Oreo.  Tweaking sails is a minor inconvenience to the true purpose of watch keeping.  My myriad of activities must also be interrupted-every fifteen to twenty minutes-by a visual sweep of the horizon and radar if we are using it.  So far, no boats on this particular watch.  I could really get some serious things done around here if it wasn’t for all the sailing. 

Oreo is faring well but like me, takes a day or two to get adjusted to the new sleep, or rather, non-sleep patterns.  It has been almost twenty-four hours now since we have parted Salt Pond and he still refuses to pee.  His bladder will give in, it always does, maybe even sometime later today.  Let’s hope he’s not lying in his bed when it decides to throw in the towel.

A.M.

We are all sitting in the cockpit watching the sunrising overhead.  I have always preferred the sunrise to a sunset.  The sunrise, if awake before dawn, is a welcomed friend, come to bring promise of a beautiful and full day ahead, unlike the sunset who is always trying to turn the lights out.  Also, I gain a sense of accomplishment from watching the sunrise.  Any schmuck can catch the sunset but it takes another level of commitment to be up for the sunrise.  This morning, the pressure is off, literally off Oreo’s bladder as he had decided to urinate, finally.  We just did the math and we made about one hundred and two miles from yesterday AM through the night.  We are averaging over five knots, we are making great time.

All three of us are tired this morning.  We will spend the day partly lethargic, sleep tonight when its is our turn and then we will be in the groove tomorrow.  We will feel better rested and in turn healthier by then.  I have failed to mention that I have a set of workouts to be completed every day while traveling.  We made a lot of progress reaching depth at Dean’s Blue Hole.  Diving almost every day I was able to become more and more comfortable with the world record dive I will be attempting…soon.  Since we will not be able to dive for the next few days because we are sailing, I have a daily exercise schedule.  Yesterday included two stretching sessions and a series of eight breatholds called a “breathold table”.  The table was successfully completed and the stretching was great.  Today, two stretching sessions and an arm workout, yum.

MIDDAY

The morning, in one word, sweaty.  Ren caught another dolphin, a bit smaller than yesterday’s, but just as beautiful.  I made tuna salad with the remaining tuna, which turned out excellent (mayonnaise free for all of you training athletes out there) so we kept the dolphin, as previously planned.  Ren fought the fish up to the bow and back down the starboard side of the boat passing the rod around numerous obstacles, shrouds, sails, the stern railing.  Each time he passed the rod around something from one hand to the next, he also had to be careful not to drop the rod or let the dolphin rip it from his hands.  Fishing off of a sailboat is a real challenge.  No fighting chairs, harnesses, or wide open sterns to secure fish from.  Just a bunch of rolling from side to side and nowhere to stand.  After finishing his lengthy dance around the boat Ren pulled the yellow and green fish out of the water and stabbed a knife into his brain, killing him and alleviating the suffering.  He finished pulling the fish all the way into the cockpit, our living quarters, blood everywhere.  We promptly laid a black rag over the dolphin’s eyes to reduce the chances that he would freak out and thrash about if he decided to come back to life.  We watched in amazement as the fish turned colors from green and yellow to stark white and a brilliantly bright light blue color.  His light blue dorsal fin was tipped in black like it had been dipped in ink.  I am not sure if there is an evolutionary advantage to the color change but the radiance of the spectacle is unparalleled  Although, the rapid color adaption of the octopus is a close second only trumped by the vibrant colors of the mahi.

We are now less than forty miles from Inagua where we will be making a turn to the West to head through the Windward Passage and deeper into the Caribbean.  I will not conceal the fact that thoughts of pirates flooded my sleep deprived brain last night.  My only distraction from the thought of six men with semi-automatic weapons ripping our boat apart only to find what we already told then we had, nothing, was the inspired cadence of Mark Twain.     

P.M.     

The wind has picked up and I have the first shift 9:00pm to 1:00am.  Before the shift starts we decide to watch just one episode of our TV series du jour, Pushing Daisies.  Ren and Oreo cuddle up in a corner of the cockpit and I arrange the computer and external speakers so that we can both see and hear the show.  I stay in the cabin while Ren stays in the cockpit to keep a watchful eye on passing ships.  The show if full of really interesting cinematography.  The colors are vivid and the plot and characters almost fantasy-like.  It is an entertaining show.

Watching such a benign program with my little family helps to dry the tears a bit.  They have  been pouring out in fifteen minute bursts at unpredictable times.  There must be something hormonal going on with me because, although we are leaving comfortable territory for the unknown, I still have Ren and Oreo with me.  We are still living a dream.  I predict a combination of emotions, both controllable and incontrollable are at fault here.  Brewing a pot of emotional instability just for me.  Ren is very patient with me right now.  He understands that there is nothing he can do to fix the problem.  His patience is not beyond asking me once, “You still like me don’t you?”  It will pass in another day, whatever it is.  In the meantime, “I want my Mommy!”

After the show I settle in for my watch and am interrupted within the hour by Ren who cannot sleep.  Nothing surprising there, it’s hard to sleep here right now.  He takes the first watch from me and I sleep for one hour and toss for another two.  It is comforting for Ren to take the wheel.  When he is on watch I am exempt from making decisions which is great.  When he take the wheel I can lie down confident that everything will be fine.  The rough seas are going to leave me exhausted.

 

Journal to Jamaica Day 4

A journalized account of our non-stop sail through the Windward Passage from Long Island, Bahamas to Port Antonio, Jamaica.

DAY FOUR:

A.M.

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Port Antonio, Jamaica. This port would come to be one of our favorites due to the afternoon showers and fresh food right around the corner.

There was a nice surprise waiting for me this morning at shift switch, and no, it was not a severed head.  We were scheduled to do three hour shifts.  Mine ran from 9:00pm to 12:00am then on again at 3:00am to 6:00am.  Ren woke me for my 3:00 shift at almost 6:00!  This means we were further along when I woke up than expected, a welcomed surprise indeed.  The sun is rising right now which is huge for the mental component of the sail.  Waking up tired at 3:00am is a lot different than waking up to a rising sun at 6:00am.  What this really means is that I got to sleep through the night, for the most part.  I am not sure if I ever entered the deep sleep phase of the sleep cycle but I definitely dreamt for the first time since being on this passage.  I think this is the first time I have had time to dream.  To really stretch my sleep legs.

My Mom and I were walking through a dusty little town.  The place had an Eleutherian feel.  This vision must have been the product of the time we Ren and I just spent in the Bahamas, no doubt.  Actually the town looked exactly like the part of Georgetown, Exuma you have to walk to get to the community trash receptacle.  I only walked there once.  Funny how even the most insignificant details imprint themselves into your subconscious.  Eager to be considered important, worth recalling at a later date.  Imagine all the information that must be stored in our brains if only we could recall the stored bits of data on demand.  Wow!  I’m blowing my own mind here, and I digress.

Mom and I were walking through this town during a small festival.  We were trying to get a handle on the local flavor.  We wore big smiles and talked to everyone.  We attempted conversation but were readily rebuffed by the locals.  Their noses turning up at the site of us, or maybe at the sound of our voices.  We walked into a big ping government building to get a drink of water.  A tall white woman with bright red hair, green eyes and a green sequined evening gown hung up a sign advertising her newly missing dog.  The big grin on her face did not match the anxiety she should have been feeling over her lost companion.  Her smug smile in sharp contrast to the sympathy she tried to elicit.  Dream sequence ended.  Suggestions?

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Kids playing soccer on a beach during our entry to Jamaica.

Oreo greeted me with a lot of tail wagging and rolling over on my feet this morning.  Amazing how such a small mammal who contributes nothing to conversation or the necessities of the household can make you feel so loved.  It is kind of like the alcoholic brother you have living on your couch.  You can be damned if he is going to send a few bucks your way to help with rent.  He is not going to get up early and whip up some breakfast for you before you’re off to work.  But the guy is funny and you love him because he is your brother.  Anyway, Oreo greeted me happily and I responded happily especially when I learned that we only had sixty eight miles to go.  As of right now we have fifty eight nautical miles left and are averaging almost six knots.  It looks like the end is in sight.  As a matter of fact, I think last night was my last night shift.  We should be in Jamaica in about 11.6 hours, roughly 6:00pm, and this is a conservative estimate based on only five knots average.  I cannot believe we have managed to shrink a six day passage down to four.  Where there is a will, there is a way.

MIDDAY   

Another hot, hot, day, another nap (two hours), and another dream this afternoon.  I will spare you the details of this dream but let’s just say this, we were traveling the world by horseback.  A white horse with a blue trimmed saddle.  I woke up mad at Ren for having gotten two tattoos without even mentioning it to me first.  The worse of the two being a hug snake covering half of his back.  In real life neither of us have tattoos.  In real life, as in my dream, a huge expensive surprise tattoo will not be a cause for celebration.

I awoke to only thirty two miles to go.  This should put us in Port Antonio at dusk or just after dark.  Jamaica does not acknowledge daylight savings time so we are gaining an hour of travel time.  Imagine that, they do not amend Time to fit demanding work schedules.  Sounds like a bunch of backwards people huh?  I bet they say, “hello” when they mean “goodbye” and I bet they walk on their hands too.  We shall see. 

Ren is fishing again, hunting mahi.  He has been having a great time as we have been traveling the perfect trolling speed.  This is the hottest part of the day.  Usually we try to sit as still as we can and read, fish a bit, write something, anything non-physical.  Any workouts or chores to be done must wait until at least 3:00.  At this time, not only is the heat starting to subside a bit, but our stomachs are perfectly settled from lunch too so we get pretty productive.  No worrisome digestion getting in our way.  Training for this record has made me intensely aware of the digestive process.  It takes thoughtful schedule management to make sure breakfast has had time to digest before the dive.  If the digestive schedule is considered, the dive is much more comfortable and a lot easier as the body is not wasting valuable energy on a process it could have taken care of earlier.  This principal works for anyone, not just freedivers.  Avoid midmorning indigestion or unpredictable evacuations by eating on time and slowing down.  Do not eat on the way to work, eat well before you get there.  Chew your food, a talent inspired by our friend Lance on EZ.  I’m still working on this one.  The body already knows what to do, learn to use your body properly and will not leave you feeling used.

P.M.

This place is lush and green…and mountainous!  We cannot wait to explore Jamaica and take lots of pictures.  More to follow…

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Any Last Words?

“But what shall I do with my furniture?”  My gay butterfly is tangled in a spider’s web then.  Even those who seem for a long while not to have any, if you inquire more narrowly you will find have some stored in somebody’s barn.”

-Thoreau

We cast off the dock around 11:00pm on Wednesday, November 23.  Already exhausted from three days of all work, no sleep (it’s more work than you may think to get your affairs in order, get a boat in order, and provision a boat for a seven month tour!) we had to take advantage of the weather window.  Down the dark northeast Cape Fear we went, on our way to downtown Wilmington.  It was cold as ice and a bit windy, what can you do?  We put on more clothes and tried to get excited about our adventure.  The moment I was hoping for, the elation after leaving the dock, was pretty understated.  It turns out I wouldn’t feel that ‘moment’ for another three days. 

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Ren taking the opportunity for a little nap.

I tried not to let doubt creep in as I patiently waited for something to happen.  Anything really.  Anything sign to justify our decision to quit our jobs, sell our stuff (all of our stuff), move on a boat, and leave our families behind.  I waited, not so patiently, for a white dove to land on our bimini top, a shooting star to spell out my name in the sky, Oreo to get up and start dancing a jig, or even Ren to just tell me everything is going to be alright.  In his exhausted state, he was not in a position to offer support to a needy wife.  I shouldn’t have been in the position to feel so needy.  I mean come on, how many people take a chance like we were taking?  How lucky are we to not be paralyzed by fear.  Fear stopping us from our dreams!  But I was paralyzed, not literally of course, but with fear.  That too would pass, but it is still taking time.

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Ashley keeping warm in nice sailing conditions.

As we approached downtown Wilmington I called my brother, at 3;00am, half hoping he would still be out and about ready to meet us for a beer.  I knew that even if he answered we wouldn’t be stopping for that beer.  It’s kind of like taking off a band-aid.  You gotta rip it off, you can’t slowly pull, one arm hair at a time, until the thing  is off.  We had to keep on going.  We had already said our goodbyes.

We left the Cape Fear river behind us around 7:00 am on Thanksgiving Day.  Our first ocean passage was narrowing in on us.  Once you leap from the precipice, there is no turning back.  The leap off our edge was painless, we landed in water.  The sailing on the first day was good.  The wind was up, and we were able to sail at a nice beam reach. 

Let me digress.  Ren has worked extremely hard to learn all systems on the boat.  Since we do not have the option of throwing and endless supply of money every one of Nila Girl’s whims one of us had to learn to be resourceful so that most every repair could be made by us.  Two words, “Not it!”.  Because of Ren’s capabilities as primary captain, engineer, mechanic, husband, etc. he decided to engineer a wheel adapter for our self steering wind vane.  A manufactured wheel adapter, $500.00.  Ren’s wheel adapter, $50.00.  Knowing ahead of time when to buy the real thing, Priceless.  As we were getting ready to settle in, on the same side of the cockpit of course, and let our trusty Windpilot take over for us for a while, we learned that the wheel adapter Ren created just wouldn’t work quite right.  Damn!  I guess that’s what you get when you are rushing the boat for a weather window, not to mention, you quit your job and have to dodge town ASAP in order to stop spending money out of your newly fixed income.

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The lee cloth keeping Ren snuggled up on the starboard side of Nila Girl.

Back to sailing down a nice beam reach.  So we were steering down a nice beam reach and decided that hand steering all night just wouldn’t do.  Ren taught me something valuable at that moment.  Something to store in the vault of Sailing Information in my brain.  Not to be   immediately discarded with other sailing lectures from him such as, “trim this sail like this blah, blah blah”, “…then release the switch, then push this button here, blah, blah, blah”, or “winch this here and tie the so and so knot to cinch blah, blah blah”.  No, this advice was something I could immediately start practicing.  You can actually let the boat sail itself, if you’re not downwind, and you set the sails perfect and lock the wheel in place.  Holy crap!  You would’ve thought I won the lottery.  I was going to be able to read, in 15 minute intervals, while on watch.  This was going to be A-Ok.

The wind blew all day and into the night.  We kept watch in 3 hour intervals, which worked great.  Ren sewed us a couple of lee cloths (I told you he was sickeningly resourceful…lucky me!) which I couldn’t imagine spending a night in the ocean without.  They turned our downtime between watches from fitfully tossing around on a settee cushion that’s already a bit too small into a decent little nap.  I actually became so fond of the lee cloths that when we later anchored in the ICWW I preferred to sleep on the settee cushion that still had the lee cloth up.  Sleeping next to one is like being cradled in your mother’s arms.  I may have just been homesick.

We survived our first day and night at sea.  We didn’t kill ourselves or each other.  Oreo faired well too.  At first, all three of us felt a bout of sea sickness.  No chunks, just nausea.  Ren and I ate Gin Gins, in part because they are supposed to ease the nausea of motion sickness, in part because they are freaking delicious.  Oreo tried one but didn’t like it so he fought the sickness by panting a lot.